TPS trick not working

[Batoutahell]

It's been about a week since the install and I'm not seeing any less detonation at tip-in, and no less detonation everywhere else. When I installed the wiring, all the voltages looked correct; 5v power, .5-4.3v on the real signal wire depending on throttle position, and a constant 4.3v on the false wire. My relay is clicking when I remove the ground wire from the JR pressure sensor.

Is it possible that my pressure sensor is bad?? Frankly, I've never heard my JR relay "click" on and off under boost, and I'm not hearing my TPS relay "click" under boost. Should the "clicks" be audible inside the car? Is there any way to test the pressure sensor other than generating boost while on a dyno? I'm just not convinced that my pressure sensor is breaking ground to my relays like it should under 1psi.

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'00ITR#739
JRSC, JR Walbro FP, JR intake, J&S SafeGuard, JR BTC, v-afc

[blwncvc]

I don't hear my solenoids click persay ... but what I do get, which lets me know that my solendoids are working is a buzz noise in my speakers (just for an instant), when the stereo on with the volume all the way down, right at about .5 to 1 lbs of boost I get an audible buzzz out the speakers... lets me know my solenids are working ...

[Holden]

Mine can be easily heard. They are mounted against the firewall and I'd know the instant they stopped working.

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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342/TPS Mod, JR BTC, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site

[waveoff]

To add onto what 94Integra said, the a/f gauge should hold steady on the first couple of green LED's when boosting at partial throttle. When you floor it and go to WOT the a/f gauge will then light up the 3rd or 4th green LED...depending on how you have your mixture set. I don't hear my relays clicking either but I know everything's working like it should with the a/f gauge. Do you have a new style pressure sensor? What's your timing at? What are your fuel pressures? Let's get rid of that detonation!

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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph

[Batoutahell]

At WOT, my (J&S) a/f meter quickly jumps to the 2nd red (rich) led. Not the richest led, but not bad. I guess the JR relay and the TPS mod relay are working. However, I'm still picking up signs of detonation, both at tip-in and lingering for as long as 5-6 seconds. I'm running 16 degrees BTDC timing, with my BTC now at 6 clicks. My static fp is 50psi, and my idle fp is also 50psi. JR recommends that typeR's run as low as 45 psi static fp, but I'm afraid that would exacerbate my detonation. I'm contemplating retarding my timing to 14-15 degrees, and then fine-tuning the BTC.

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'00ITR#739
JRSC, JR Walbro FP, JR intake, J&S SafeGuard, JR BTC, v-afc

[waveoff]

How about at partial throttle when you're boosting? Is your a/f gauge at least holding steady somewhere or is it bouncing around? It should hold steady when boosting at partial throttle. If it's bouncing around then the TPS trick isn't hooked up right. Try stock timing and 55 psi on the FP.

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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph

[This message has been edited by waveoff (edited March 18, 2001).]

[94Integra]

You'll know the pressure switch is working with a A/F guage. When at part throttle at 1 or more psi, the A/F should go right to the green like at WOT.

[B20C5 Turbo]

BAT: Do you have the NEW J&S display with the cruise/power switch?

That is the *ONLY* o2 based display that has ever produced usable output. I have compared gobs of them to my $3800 Lambda meter, and none of the others were even close to usable for tuning purposes (even the old J&S display).

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The difference between having knowledge and applying knowledge is you cannot gain experience just from having it.

Mark Bremer
Phantom Motorsport
SLC, Utah

[Batoutahell]

The good news is that under part-throttle boosting, the a/f gauge holds steady in the moderately-rich zone. The bad news is that I have the old J&S unit, so it isn't accurate enough for tuning purposes.

I will try to raise my baseline fp to 55 or so. In a way, I'm hoping this will NOT cure my problem b/c JR claims that jrsc'd typeR's must lower the baseline fp to 45-50psi (and install Rafe's TPS trick, both of which I have done) in order to achieve 200+whp.

I wonder if the 2 jrsc'd typeR's that JR tuned for 200+whp are experiencing detonation as bad as I am.

[lundgren]

At what point do you need to adjust the BTC as to eliminate all J&S activity? Maybe the J&S is set at a level that is too sensetive.

BTW, I get an occational J&S light too, nothing to worry about, so long as it's not on everytime, or nearly everytime you press the throttle.

I've also learned to downshift, if I want to accelerate. I don't do many low RPM pulls.